Garment construction



July 6, 1943. A, KATZ Y 2,323,777

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 12, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 47 HEl/FHHHI'U KHTz INVENTOR l WW4 M 42 43 ATTORNEY July 6, 1943. z 2,323,777

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 12, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I,"VIIIIIIIII'IIIIIIPII'IIII'IIIII... 1,,

H5 kHHF/m KFi TZ INVENTOR ATTORNEY Patented July 6, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Abraham Katz, New York, N. Y.

Application February 12, 1941, Serial No. 378,593

4 Claims.

This invention relates generally to wearing apparel, and, more particularly, to garments having special back constructions. Among the objects of this invention, lies the provision of novel garment back structure permitting a greater amount of freedom of movement by the wearer and an enhancement of the appearance and style of the garment.

Another object herein lies in the provision of novel garment back construction having the above described characteristic which is very readily installed in garments of known construc-- tion requiring a minimum of change of fabricating technique and basic garment styling.

Another object herein lies in the provision of a novel garment back structure which operates with a maximum of comfort to the wearer, in which means are provided for constantly maintaining the back of the garment for a stylish and neat appearance.

A still further object herein lies in the provision of a novel expansive back construction which maintains a high degree of efliciency throughout the life of the garment by reason of certain detachable and replaceable components.

Garments constructed in accordance with the present invention require an extremely small amount of additional material so that the same,

by reason of altered cutting, may not require material in an amount greater than an amount normally used where the present invention is not utilized.

A further feature herein lies in the fact that garments made in accordance with the present invention require an extremely small amount of additional labor over that normally required.

As contrasted with prior constructions for producing similar effects, the present invention is more eflicient and cheaper to install with the result that the same may have a consequent wide scale distribution.

While the present expansive back construction is extremely efiicient in use, it is to be noted that the same does not add appreciably to the bulk of the garment. Thus, garments made in accordance herewith, when worn in warm weather are at least as cool, and in some variations even 0001- er, than others heretofore known.

These objects and other incidental ends and advantages will more fully appear in the progress of this disclosure and be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings forming a material part hereof, similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, in which:

Figure 1 is a front view in perspective of a first embodiment of the invention, as worn.

Figure 2 is a rear view in perspective of Figure 1, showing the garment back in a normal or unexpanded position thereof.

Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view of the upper portion of Figure 2, but shows the garment back in an expanded position thereof.

Figure 4 is an elevational view of the back of the garment as seen from the inside surface thereof, the same being in an unexpanded position, and prior to installationin the garment.

Figure 5 is an enlarged fragmentary horizontal sectional view as seen from the plane 5--5 on Figure 2. In this figure, the back is in the normal or unextended position thereof.

Figure 6 is a view taken similarly to Figure 5 but shows the parts in the extended position thereof. g

Figure 7 is a front view in perspective of a second embodiment of the invention, as worn.

Figure 8 is a rear view in perspective of Figure 7', showing the garment back in a normal or unexpanded position thereof.

Figure 9 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view of the upper portion of Figure 8, but shows the garment back in an expanded position thereof.

Figure 10 is an enlarged fragmentary view in perspective showing an alternate form of connection between the outer end. of the elastic element and the back end sleeve juncture.

Figure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary horizontal sectional view as seen from the plane Il-ll on Figure 8. In this figure, the back is in the normal or unextended position thereof. I

Figure 12 is a view taken similarly to Figure 11 but shows the parts thereof in the extended position thereof.

Figure 13 is an elevational View of the back of the garment as seen from the inside surface thereof, the same being in an unexpanded position, and prior to installation in the garment.

Turning now to the first embodiment of the invention, generally indicated by numeral 20, and illustrated in Figures 1 to 6 inclusive, the garment 20 may be of any desired construction with the exception of the back 2i. It is desirable that the garment be composed of relatively non-stretchable material or of a material having a low degree of elasticity, since it is an important object of this invention to impart the effect of elasticity to garments composed of relatively inelastic material. The garment may include a front or bosom portion 22, a skirt 23 and a collar 24. The back 2I and the front 22 form the upper portion of the garment to which are connected the sleeves 25 and 26. The back 2| includes an outer surface 21 and an inner surface 28. The inner surface 28 is provided with a pair of inwardly and oppositely disposed folds or pleats 29 and 30, which are preferably maintained in folded condition by means of the longitudinally (vertically) directed rows of stitches 3| and 32. The outer surface 21 is provided with a pair of outwardly directed an oppositely disposed pleats 33 and 34. The pleats 33 and 34 are preferably maintained in folded condition by means of the longitudinally (vertically) directed rows of stitches 35 and 36.

Disposed between the pleats 28 and 33, and 29 and 34 (limited by the stitches 3| and 35, and 32 and 36) are the reserve material portions 31 and 39. Since the reserve material portions 3'! and 38 form a kind of reservoir of excess material which is available for extension of the back 2I, horizontally thereof, the width of said portions may be adjusted to conform with the needs of said back in use.

Bridging the gap between the inner pleats 29 and 30, is an elastic control element 39 which is connected to said pleats by the detachably engageable means 40 and M. As seen particularly in Figures 5 and 6, said means may take the form of well known snap fasteners. In the use of snap fasteners in these positions, it is desirable that the female element be connected to the pleats 29 and 30, while the male element be connected to the outer nds of the control element 39.

The elastic control element is desirably of such length that in the normal or relaxed condition thereof, the pleats 29 and may be so spaced so that the distance between them, plus the width of the reserve material portions 37 and 38, shall be substantially equal to the width of the panel 42 existing between the pleats 33 and 34.

Turning to Figure 4, as is well known in the tailoring or dressmaking art, the back 2I includes the collar connecting portion 43, the shoulder connecting portions 44 and 45, the side connecting portions 46 and 41, the waist connecting portion 48, and the sleeve connecting portions 49, and 50. The back, as shown in Figure 4, is assembled with the rest of the garment in any desired manner as is well known in the art, the back in the normal position thereof occupying the same area that a usual back portion would occupy.

Obviously, the waist connecting portion 48 may be moved downwardly so that the belt 51 may be moved downwardly, or in an alternate construction, the belt may be eliminated entirely and the pleats may be extended to any desired lower level.

As seen in Figure 2, when the completed garment is worn, the present invention does not appreciably affect the styling thereof, and the presence thereof is only evidenced by the pleats 33 and 34 being visible, and this actually contributes to the appearance and styling of the back of the garment. The present invention, that is to say, the novel back construction, is of great value in connection with all kinds of garments where the wearer requires free and substantial arm movement. When the wearer stoops and brings the arms together, thereby greatly increasing the distance across the back between the shoulders, the back 2I expands or extends itself as illustrated in Figure 3, and the reserve material portions come into use, thereby increasing the effective width of the back 2I. This is graphically illustrated in Figure 6. In Figure 3, for purposes of clarity, the normal outer visible vertical edges of the back 2| are indicated by dotdash lines 52 and 53, while the altered position thereof under stress is indicated by numerals 54 and 55 respectively. The dot-dash lines 56 and 51 indicate the normal position of the pleats 33 and 34, while the lines 58 and 59 show the normally inner, but now outer, extremities of the reserve material portions 31 and 38. Upon a release of the outward tension by the return of the wearers arms to normal position, the elastic control element contracts to move the pleats 29 and 30 to their normal position, thereby restoring the garment back to a neat and trim appearance.

Since it is desirable that work garments be of such a nature that they may be subject to either relatively strong cleansing operations or to the exposure of heat as in ironing or sterilizing, in accordance with applicants construction, the elastic control element may be made of a relatively low cost and light weight elastic material such as rubber, and by use of the detachably engageable means 40 and 4|, the elements 39 may be removed temporarily during the cleansing or sterilizing and pressing operations.

Turning now to the second embodiment of the invention illustrated in Figures 7 to 13 inclusive, the garment I20 may be of any desired construction with the exception of the back I2I. The garment may include a front or bosom portion I22, a skirt I23 and a collar I24.

The back I2I and the front I22 form the upper portion of the garment to which are connected the sleeves I25 and I26. The back I2I comprises a plurality of members, including a first back member I60 and a second back member I6I. The first back member extends vertically between the collar I24 and the belt I5I and horizontally between the sleeve I 25 to substantially the center of the back I2I. The second back member I6I similarly extends vertically between the collar I24 and the belt I5I, and inwardly from the sleeve I26 to a point substantially midway between the inner vertical edge I62 of the first back member I60 and the sleeve member I25. The inner edge I63 of the second back member I6I underlaps the first back member.

An elastic element I39 bridges the gap between the inner edge I63 and the juncture I65 formed by the connection of the outer edge of the first back portion I60 and the upper rear edge of the sleeve I25. The elastic element I39 is connected to the edge I63 and the juncture I65 by detachably engageable means I40 and I 4|. As seen particularly in Figures 11 and 12, said means may take the form of well known snap fasteners. In the use of snap fasteners in these positions, it is desirable that the female elements be connected to the edges I63 and the juncture I65, while the male elements are connected to the outer ends of the elastic control element I39.

In Figures 11 and 12, the row of stitching I3I connects the outer edge of the first back portion 66 to the upper rear edge of the sleeve I25; while the row of stitching I32 reinforces and finishes the inner edge of the second back element I6I. The row of stitching I36 finishes the inner free edge of the first back element I60.

The elastic control element I39 is desirably of such length that in the normal or relaxed condition thereof, the juncture I65 and the inner edge I63 may be so spaced that the back I2I, when the wearer is in a relaxed position, may lie fiat in a position indicated in Figure 8.

Turning now to Figure 13, as is well known in the tailoring or dressmaking art, the back I2I includes the collar connecting portion I 43, the shoulder connecting portions I44 and I45, the side connecting portions I46 and I41, the waist connecting portions I49 and I511. The back I2I, as shown in Figure 13, is assembled with the rest of the garment in any desired manner, as is well known in the art, the back in the normal position thereof, that is to say, when the same is unextended laterally, occupying the same area that a usual back portion would occupy.

Obviously, the waist connecting portion may be moved up or down to produce a waistline at any desired level and where desired, the belt may be eliminated and the overlapping back construction may extend to any desired lower level.

As seen in Figure 8, when the completed garment is worn, the present invention does not considerably aifect the styling thereof, and When the garment is made in accordance with this invention, such fact is only evidenced by the edge I62 being visible, and this actually contributes to the appearance and styling of the back of the garment.

Free and unbound movement of the shoulders and swinging of the wearers arms forwardly of the wearer is a desirable feature permitted by this construction. When a wearer stoops, lifts or swings the arms together, or performs other similar body movements, thereby greatly increasing the distance across the back between the shoulders, the back I21 extends or expands itself as illustrated in Figure 9.

In Figure 3, for purposes of clarity, the normal outer visible vertical edges of the back I2I are indicated by dot-dash lines I52 and I53, while the altered position thereof is indicated by numerals I54 and I55 respectively. The dot-dash line I56 indicates that portion of the second back member I6I which the edge I62 normally immediately overlies when the back IZI is in an unextended condition. The area of material disposed between the edge I62 and the line I56 (on Figure 9) indicates an exposed area of the reserve material portion I3I. This reserve material portion I3'I normally exists between the edge I63 of the second back member NH and an imaginary line in said second back member disposed immediately inwardly of the edge I62 when the back I2l is in a normal or unextended condition.

Upon a release of the outward tension by the return of the wearers arms to normal position, the elastic control element I39 contracts to move the previously displaced parts to their normal position, thereby restoring the garment back to a neat and trim appearance.

Since the elastic element may be removed, the garment may be subjected to cleaning or pressing operations which require considerable heat, pressure or other processes which would tend to damage the elastic qualities of the element I39.

As seen in Figure 10, an alternate detachable attaching means is shown in the form of a hook I40 and an eye MI. The other parts shown are given singly primed reference characters for the purpose of avoiding needless repetition.

Since only relatively slight changes are made in the normal manufacturing technique and only slightly increased amounts of material are required, the total increased cost of producing a garment having the above described characteristics is of an extremely low order. This statement applies to all of the embodiments shown. The detachable attaching means and the elastic control element are additional elements, it is true, but these are of relatively low cost. Although additional material of which the garment is made, must be provided from which the reserve material portions are obtained, by reason of the fact that the garments may be composed of a number of separate pieces where desired, and by reason of the fact that the additional material required for these portions is not very great, by skillfully arranging the pattern parts, it is found that practically no increase in total yardage is required to cut a given number of uniforms, dresses, or the like from the material in the bolt or piece.

Where it is desired, the detachably attachable elements may be eliminated and the ends of the control element directly or permanently attached to the permanent parts. While eliminating the cost of the detachably attachable means, there is a corresponding loss in function and of the facility of removing the control element during cleaning or pressing operations, which might tend to damage the same.

It may thus be seen that I have provided a novel garment back construction providing advantages of comfort of use, trim appearance and low cost. Since, by reason of my novel construction, certain seams and portions of the garment receive less stress in use, it may be expected that a consequent longer wear before rupture of seams or garment parts may be expected.

I wish it to be understood that I do not desire to be limited to the exact details of construction shown and described, for obvious modifications will occur to a person skilled in the art.

I claim:

1. A garment comprising: a garment back having a first back member and a second back member; first and second sleeve members; the first back member being connected to the upper part of the first sleeve member forming a first sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the second sleeve member; the second back member being connected to the upper part of the second member, forming a second sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the first sleeve member; and an elastic element interconnecting the free edge of the second back member and the first sleeve juncture.

. 2. A garment comprising: a garment back having a first back member and a second back member; first and second sleeve members; the first back member being connected to the first sleeve member, forming a first sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the second sleeve member; the second back member being connected to the sleeve member forming a second sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the first sleeve member and underlapping the first back member; and an elastic element interconnecting the free edge of the second back member and the first sleeve juncture.

3. A garment comprising: a garment back having a first back member and a second back member; first and second sleeve members; the first back member being connected to the first sleeve member, forming a first sleeve juncture, and extending substantially half way across the garment back toward the second sleeve member; the second back member being connected to the sleeve member forming a second sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the first sleeve member and underlapping the first back member; and an elastic element interconnecting the free edge of the second back member and the first sleeve juncture.

4. A garment comprising: a garment back having a first back member and a second back member; first and second sleeve members; the first back member being connected to the upper part of the first sleeve member forming a first sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the second sleeve member; the second back member being connected to the upper part of the second member, forming a second sleeve juncture, and extending partially across the garment back toward the first sleeve member; and an elastic element detachably interconnecting the free edge of the second back member and the first sleeve juncture.

ABRAHAM KATZ. 

